You have to be a LOT more careful about proper cleaning and lubrication. Tightening the frame to slide fit results in reduced reliability and increased maintenance requirement. As designed, the 1911 should rattle when you shake it. One of the most reliable ever (properly maintained). The 1911 as designed is an extremely reliable pistol. Tightening the frame to slide fit also has reliability issues. You will get a serious accuracy boost by switching to a bushingless bull barrel if it is properly fitted. I seriously doubt you are going to get a 15% accuracy improvement from playing with frame to slide fit. FAR more important than frame to slide fit is barrel to slide fit and barrel bushing accuracy. This is assuming you are just going to weld the upper rail and not fill in the whole rail area and completely re-machine the rail and groove. This will give you a boundary for that part of the rail. When doing the frame, I would take a piece of copper, 1/4 x 1 x length of rail, and mill it to have a lip on the 1" face that is the width and depth of the groove (for the length of the rail) and clamp that to the frame while you build the rail. For practice I would take some 1/8" plate and put it on edge and try to build the edge which is basically what you will be doing when you work the top rails on the frame. Touch-start or lift-arc would be better for this application but you just don't have it. The HFstart tends to blow the corners off of thinner materials, so try to stay away from the edges when starting. One of the drawbacks with the 180 is that it only has HF start it has three ranges so I would use the lowest, #1, setting. Much more control on the thinner materials.
Mine didn't but I added an external one to allow me to get down to the thinner materials. I'm wondering if your Synchro 180 SD came with a pulser.
0 kommentar(er)
